cinnamon rose meringues + a tea menu

cinnamon rose meringues

It feels weird to write this Valentine’s Day post starting with a rant, but at least it’s a very silly rant, so here it goes… There are a couple food writing clichés that kind of get on my nerves. The one that most ruffles my feathers (we’ve all done it, myself included) is when someone takes a perfectly good food, invents a problem by claiming they actually don’t really like it for x, y, and z reasons, and then solves the problem with a magical recipe that changes everything.

Like, “Guys, I just hate brownies. They’re so chocolatey and chewy instead of light and fluffy, and they have that awkward crackly layer on top that crumbles apart when you slice pieces. But this recipe for brownies will make even brownie haters happy.” Like, none of these things are actual problems. This is not a food that needs to win people over, because to know brownies is to love them. And the 1% of people who don’t like brownies can console themselves with a chocolate chip cookie.

So it’s with a lot of hesitation (and probably a little irony) that I’m about to say this next sentence:
… I hate meringues.
They’re certainly beautiful, but they usually taste awful, and I don’t really understand why people continue to buy them in cute pastry shops, order them for weddings, and—presumably?—eat them. They’re so sugary that they kind of hurt my teeth. Their texture is like what I’d imagine a fine-grained pumice stone would taste like if it could melt in your mouth. Whatever you flavor them with will just end up tasting like sugar, and nothing else.

But (again, waiting for lightning to strike me down for my hypocrisy as I type this), I recently found a way to actually enjoy eating meringues as much as I love making and looking at them. The secret? Cream cheese frosting and yogurt. The idea was inspired by Samin Nosrat’s Salt Fat Acid Heat. Meringues are in desperate need of both fat and acid, and cream cheese frosting and yogurt have plenty. Because of their acidity, the pairing is a million times more delicious than buttercream and whipped cream, two rich ingredients you’ll more commonly find paired with meringues.

You could pretty much stop reading here, and take away the idea of using cream cheese frosting and yogurt with meringues next time you bake them for a baby shower or Galentine’s Day party (by the way, did you notice that no one ever bakes meringues for themselves? It’s always for other people. Very suspicious…). But if you’re interested, I’ve also included a tea party menu, where you bake a bunch of meringues, whip up some cream cheese frosting, bake a sponge cake, and then assemble a bunch of delicious treats with a few store-bought ingredients. Feel free to make the menu for your next big get-together, or just take the individual ideas as inspiration.

My last complaint about meringues is actually just a bit of practical advice. Don’t bake meringues when it’s humid. Just don’t do it. Even if you can get them to fully dehydrate in the oven, they’ll immediately start absorbing moisture from the air like those little silica packets you find inside brand new shoeboxes, and they’ll turn to goo within hours, if not immediately. If you absolutely must make them on a rainy day, make sure you work in a climate-controlled room, allow them to fully dehydrate in the oven, and then pop the meringues in an air-tight bag about a minute after they come out of the oven, and you should be just fine. They’ll keep that way for a week or two, but if it’s humid outside, you’d better serve them just as soon as you reopen the plastic bag.

cinnamon rose meringues

a meringue tea party

download a PDF to print

your favorite tea
your favorite tea sandwiches
petit meringue-studded cakes
little meringue sandwiches
eton mess yogurt parfait

the building blocks: meringues & frosting

cinnamon rose meringues

yield: 10 to 12 dozen small meringues
active time: 25 minutes
total time: 2 hours

  • 6 large egg whites (about 210 grams)

  • 1/4 teaspoon salt

  • 1/2 teaspoon cream of tartar

  • 1 3/4 cup granulated sugar (340 grams)

  • 1 1/2 to 2 teaspoons rosewater (I use 1 1/2 teaspoons)

  • 1 teaspoon "true" cinnamon*

  • about 12 drops pink food coloring (or a couple drops of red)

  • extra cinnamon for sprinkling

  • (optional) edible dried rose petals and extra cinnamon for sprinkling

  1. Wait for a dry day.** Preheat the oven to 225° F convection (105° C).

  2. Combine the egg whites, salt, and cream of tartar in the bowl of a stand mixer (or a large stainless steel bowl if you're using a hand mixer) fitted with the whisk attachment. Whisk at medium-low until frothy. Increase to medium and start to slowly add the sugar in a steady stream with the mixer running. Once the sugar is incorporated, add the rosewater, and increase to medium-high or high speed. Beat to stiff peaks.*** Add the cinnamon and food coloring toward the end of beating, or fold it in at the end.

  3. Pipe and/or scoop the meringue onto a parchment-lined baking sheet (I use an oversized star tip and a cookie scoop for this recipe). Don't worry about leaving too much room between them, as they won’t expand much.

    • To make meringue kisses (or star kisses, as pictured here), hold the piping tip pointed directly down, about 1/2 inch above the parchment, letting the bottom of the kiss fill out a bit before dipping in a tiny bit, and then lifting up. Use a steady stream, and don't worry about making them look uniform (have a confident hand and work somewhat quickly, gradually twisting the top of the bag to keep pressure on it).

    • To make more rustic scoops, use a leveled cookie scoop, and try to just let them drop onto the parchment from about 1/2 inch above. Don't mess with them, and don't worry if they don't all look the same. That's part of the appeal.

    • Optionally sprinkle some of the meringues with rose petals and/or a little extra cinnamon.

  4. Bake for about 1 hour for small meringues, longer for larger ones. Let them cool in the oven with the door open, to dry out completely. The meringues are done once they lift easily from the parchment and are crunchy all the way through once cool. You can store them in a tightly-sealed container or bag for about 1 to 2 weeks at room temperature.

* "True" Ceylon cinnamon has a delicate flavor, which doesn't overwhelm the rosewater. You can also use cassia cinnamon (more common in the US), which has more bite. Spice to taste, and hold back a little with cassia.
** It’s really important to bake meringues on a dry day. If you absolutely need to bake them on a humid day, make sure you do so in a climate-controlled room. You’ll probably need to bake them a while longer to dry all the way. Once they’ve baked through and are dry to their centers, let them cool for just a couple minutes, and move them straight to an air-tight bag or container. If you let them sit out too long, they’ll get sticky and turn to goo.
*** Stiff peaks means that when you lift the beaters, the peak that forms won't fall over, but will stay sticking up (it might wobble a little, but it will bounce right back to where it started). You should be able to hold the mixing bowl over your head without any risk of disaster. As soon as stiff peaks form, stop beating before it is overdone (check it periodically to make sure you don't overshoot).

cream cheese frosting

  • 2 8-ounce bricks of cream cheese, softened to room temperature *

  • 1 1/2 sticks (12 tablespoons) butter, softened to room temperature

  • 1/2 teaspoon salt

  • 2 cups (330 grams) powdered sugar

  1. Mix together the cream cheese, butter, salt, and powdered sugar over low speed with a stand mixer and whisk attachment. Once the powdered sugar is all mixed in, increase speed to medium-high, and continue mixing until it lightens in color and consistency (this should take about 2 minutes). Use at room temperature.

* This makes a lot of frosting, so that you have enough to decorate both the mini cakes and fill the sandwiches. Feel free to halve the recipe if you're not baking for a crowd, and want to have a lot of plain meringues left.

cinnamon rose meringues
cinnamon rose meringues

petit meringue-studded cakes

  • 5 large eggs (260 grams)

  • 120 grams granulated sugar

  • 120 grams all purpose flour

  • 3/4 teaspoon baking powder

  • 1/4 teaspoon salt

  • cream cheese frosting

  • meringues

  • (optional) ground pistachios for sprinkling

  1. Preheat the oven to 350° F convection, and line the bottom of a 12x16-inch nonstick rectangular pan with parchment paper.*

  2. Combine the eggs and sugar in the bowl of a stand mixer (or use a stainless steel bowl and hand-held mixer). Beat on medium-high with the whisk attachment until it looks like this (about 5 to 8 minutes). It should increase significantly in size and become much lighter in color. When you lift the beaters, the trail will slowly disappear back into itself after 1 full second ("one Mississippi").

  3. Combine the flour, baking powder, and salt. Sift about 1/3 of the flour mixture evenly over the surface of the whipped eggs/sugar and carefully fold it in with a rubber spatula, scraping the bottom. Repeat with the next 1/3, and then the final 1/3.

  4. Spread the batter evenly all the way to the edges of the parchment-lined pan (careful that the parchment doesn’t shift). Drop the pan from about an inch above the counter once or twice to knock out any big air bubbles (don't worry, it won't collapse).

  5. Bake for about 10 to 15 minutes (in my oven it takes 13 minutes, but it can vary). To test for doneness, gently press on the surface toward the middle—it should spring back after a second. Carefully run a knife around the edges to free the cake (go around once sawing up and down, then once dragging the knife), and invert it onto a (non-onioney) cutting board. Peel off the parchment, and let it cool for about 30 minutes.

  6. Once cool, use a very large cookie cutter to stamp out as many rounds as you can. Enjoy or discard the scraps. Build the cakes by sandwiching a thin layer of frosting between layers of sponge, and building up at least 4 layers of sponge per cake (you'll probably end up with 2 5-layer cakes, depending on the size of your cookie cutter). Make sure they're straight, and then frost the tops and sides with an off-set spatula (using a rotating turntable, if you have one).

  7. Move the cakes to their plate or display (carefully lift each with a spatula), and decorate with the meringues however you'd like (optionally, sprinkle with pistachios after the meringues go on). Save the rest of the frosting for making little meringue sandwiches. The cakes can be made hours ahead of time, but don’t decorate with meringues until the hour before serving, or they will soften too much.

* If you don't have convection, it'll just take a little longer.

cinnamon rose meringues
cinnamon rose meringues

little meringue sandwiches

  • meringues

  • cream cheese frosting

  • ground pistachios or sprinkles

  1. Use the rest of the cream cheese frosting to sandwich more meringues together. Pipe (or spoon) a generous tablespoon of frosting in the center of one meringue, and then squeeze another meringue on top, letting the frosting balloon out of the sides a little.

  2. Immediately roll the sides in ground pistachios or sprinkles. These should be made within an hour of serving.

cinnamon rose meringues
cinnamon rose meringues

Eton mess yogurt parfait

  • plain yogurt (either whole milk or 0% fat)

  • strawberry or raspberry preserves or jam

  • strawberries or raspberries

  • meringues

  1. You can serve a family-style bowl, which people can scoop from, or you can serve them individually (which is much more of a tea party thing, but either will totally work). Clear bowls, glasses, etc., work best, but tea cups or little bowls work great too (just try to keep them on the small side if you're serving individual portions). Don't use tall champagne flutes, even though they look festive, because they're difficult to eat from (and also a pain to plate).

  2. Swirl several spoonfuls of the jam/preserves into the yogurt (sweeten it to taste, and only fold it a couple times to keep it swirled). Scoop spoonfuls of the yogurt into the serving bowl/bowls, top with berries and meringues, and serve immediately. Or make and plate everything ahead, and add just add the meringues at the last minute.

cinnamon rose meringues

rosemary cornmeal fig ma'amoul (gluten free)

rosemary cornmeal fig ma'amoul (gluten free)

Now that there are so many excellent flour blends on the market, gluten free baking has become much more straightforward. But when you need to replace something like semolina, all purpose flour blends don’t really cut it. If you’re not sure exactly what I mean, take ma’amoul for instance. Ma’amoul showcases semolina’s distinctive texture—when hydrated and kneaded, it becomes simultaneously chewy, buttery, and just a tiny bit gritty. So to make ma’amoul gluten free, you can’t simply replace the semolina with a standard gluten free flour blend.

When I first started brainstorming a replacement, I immediately thought of almond meal and cornmeal grits/polenta, the two grittiest gluten free flours out there. In the end, I settled on cornmeal, because it tends to have that simultaneously gritty and moist texture (while almond meal mostly just adds crumbliness when it’s not in an eggy batter).

rosemary cornmeal fig ma'amoul (gluten free)
rosemary cornmeal fig ma'amoul (gluten free)

I posted a little bit about developing this recipe on instagram, and if you were following along, you might’ve noticed that I was really excited about my first try making these with cornmeal, which went pretty well. And I knew I was onto something good when Yasmeen from Wandering Spice messaged me to say she’s used polenta to make gluten free ma’amoul before.

As you might expect, usually when something goes well on the first try, it only takes one or two more experiments to get it perfect. But for some reason this one took a lot more trial and error to really get it right. I initially had a lot of trouble hydrating my cornmeal enough to create the right texture, and I worried that doing much more than soaking the cornmeal would lose that little bit of grittiness.

Eventually I figured out a method that works really well, which I’ve detailed in the recipe below. Or feel free to read on if you want to hear more about my cornmeal experiments.

rosemary cornmeal fig ma'amoul (gluten free)
rosemary cornmeal fig ma'amoul (gluten free)

While semolina hydrates after a quick soak, I learned first hand that grits/polenta absolutely does not. I tried an overnight soak, I tried a hot milk soak, I tried soaking them for an entire 24 hours, and nothing quite did the trick. The resulting ma’amoul were always a little too gritty. Cooking the cornmeal beforehand seemed like the only way to proceed, but I didn’t want to cook it so much that it lost all texture, and I also didn’t want to cook it in too much liquid, or else the dough wouldn’t be the right consistency (but grits need a lot of liquid otherwise they quickly seize up and become difficult to work with).

The solution lied in the clarified butter, a key ma’amoul ingredient. By cooking the grits for 3-5 minutes in a big pool of clarified butter and milk, they absorb just the right amount of moisture without seizing or turning to mush (plus you don’t have to worry about an overnight soak). The butter lets them stay relatively liquid without setting up, and by the time they plump up as much as they should, you add some cold milk to slow the cooking process. Mix in the gluten free flour until it forms a dough, and you’ve got the perfect texture for ma’amoul.

rosemary cornmeal fig ma'amoul (gluten free)
rosemary cornmeal fig ma'amoul (gluten free)

Also, I’m so excited to share these cookies as part of Cosette’s virtual cookie exchange! Check out the hash tag on instagram (#virtualcookieparty2018) for more, and be sure to check out the recipes below for more holiday baking inspiration, including Cosette’s classic ma’amoul. Some of the links will go live later today, and I’ll keep adding links as more are added throughout the day.

Ma’amoul Cookies by Cosette’s Kitchen
Fruit Cake Shortbread by Amisha from the Jam Lab
Star anise dark muscvado sugar shortbread by Majed Ali
Pistachio and Rose Shortbread by Mai from Almond and Fig
White Chocolate Cherry Macadamia Cookie by Healthy Little Vittles
Gingerbread Coconut Llama Cookies by Baking The Goods
Sans Rival Macaron by Rezel Kealoha
Ginger Cardamom Tea Cookies by Candice Walker
Chocolate Dipped Lace Oatmeal Cookies by Emily Baird
Ghoraybeh cookies by Heifa Odeh
Spicy Chile Gingerbread Cookies by Kate Ramos
Brown Sugar Macaroons by Katherine Turro
Mint chocolate sandwich cookies with bourbon-vanilla cream by Well Seasoned (Ari Laing)
Gingerbread Cardamom Cookies by Sift & Simmer
Chocolate Pistachio Biscotti by Ashley Cuoco
Chocolate Ginger Cookies by Georgie
Biscochitos (New Mexican Sugar Cookies) by Bebe Carminito
Chocolate dipped orange shortbread cookies by Mimi Newman

rosemary cornmeal fig ma'amoul (gluten free)
rosemary cornmeal fig ma'amoul (gluten free)

rosemary cornmeal fig ma’amoul

yield: about 40 cookies
active time: 60 minutes
total time: 90 minutes
download a PDF to print

dough

  • 140 grams (1 1/4 sticks/5 ounces) unsalted butter (to make 110g clarified butter/ghee)

  • 518g (2 1/4 cups) cold whole milk, split into 288g (1 1/4 cup) and 230g (1 cup)

  • 125g (3/4 cup) cornmeal grits or polenta*

  • 70g (1/3 cup) sugar

  • 270g (2 cups) gluten free all purpose flour blend**

  • 2g minced rosemary (1 teaspoon)

  • 1/2 teaspoon salt (2.5g)

  1. Clarify the butter (see my clarified butter post for specific instructions and a video—use less butter than the video says, since this recipe only calls for starting out with 1 1/4 sticks). Melt the butter in a small saucepan over medium heat. Once the butter has melted, reduce the heat to medium-low and continue to simmer. Keep an eye on the temperature and adjust it as necessary, so that the butter solids don't brown. Remove from heat as soon as the simmering has quieted down a bit, but before it goes silent (about 7 minutes). Use a spoon to carefully skim off any solids from the surface, and then slowly pour the liquid into a measuring cup, leaving behind any of the solids left at the bottom of the pot. You should end up with 110g clarified butter (or feel free to skip this step and start out with 110g store-bought ghee).

  2. Bring the 288g (1 1/4 cup) milk to a simmer over medium heat, stirring occasionally to make sure it doesn’t scorch.

  3. Once the milk comes to a simmer, pour in the hot clarified butter, cornmeal, and sugar. Cook for about 3 minutes, stirring frequently, until it thickens significantly and pulls away from the sides of the bowl. The polenta should be unpleasantly al dente, and there should be no completely hard grains.

  4. Remove the saucepan from heat, add the second addition of milk (230g/1 cup) and stir into the cornmeal dough until it is fully incorporated and thinned out. Move it to a mixing bowl, and then stir in the gluten free all purpose flour, rosemary, and salt, and knead together with a wooden spoon until it forms a tender dough. Let the dough rest for about 20 to 30 minutes to make sure it’s totally hydrated (while you work on the filling). If it’s too wet after resting, add a little more gluten free flour. If it’s too dry, make little indentations with your fingers across the surface, add a bit more milk, and let it soak it up for a few more minutes (using a scale to measure ingredients takes out a lot of the guesswork, but all flour blends work a little differently, so make sure you keep an eye on the dough).

filling

  • 580g (1 lb 4.5 oz) dried figs

  • 14g (1 tablespoons) butter, broken into 10 to 15 small pieces

  • 58g (1/4 cup) water (divided in half)

  • 1/4 teaspoon salt

  • 1g (1/2 teaspoon) rosemary

  1. Preheat the oven to 400° F (204° C)

  2. Prep the figs by trimming away any stems.

  3. Place the figs in a skillet, dot with butter, and sprinkle with 2 tablespoons water. Roast for 10 minutes, just until they soften slightly and take on a little more color.

  4. Let cool for a few minutes, and then transfer to a food processor, add the salt, rosemary, and 2 more tablespoons water (if necessary) and purée. If your dried figs are very moist, you may not need all the water, but I find that most brands need it—add it gradually if you’re unsure.

  5. Roll the date paste into about 40 balls. Oil your hands as you work to keep the dates from sticking to you.

shaping

  • the dough

  • the filling

  • a ma’amoul mold***

  • powdered sugar

  1. Roll the ma’amoul dough into the same number of balls as the filling (about 40). If it seems a little dry, feel free to add a tablespoon of milk at a time until it’s a nice consistency.

  2. Preheat the oven to 450° F (230° C) convection.****

  3. Stuff the dough: Flatten a dough ball in the palm of your hand. Place a filling ball in the center, and fold the sides up over it. Make sure the whole thing is covered pretty evenly, then roll the whole thing into a smooth ball. Repeat with the remaining ones.

  4. Lightly oil your ma’amoul press (re-oil if necessary, but you’ll usually only need to do this once). Press a stuffed ball into the mold, and gently flatten it, making sure you work it into the nooks of the mold. Once it’s flattened, release it from the mold by pressing the release button, or whacking it against a cutting board (I slam it on a cutting board once, then rock it back and forth once or twice until it falls into my hand). Place the ma’amoul on parchment-lined sheetpans.

  5. Bake for about 12 minutes, just until they turn golden all over and brown in spots. Let them cool, dust with powdered sugar, and then serve. These are best the day you make them, but can be made a few hours ahead of time. They freeze pretty well, if you have any left over.

* Either polenta or grits will work here, but don’t use precooked/quick-cooking polenta or grits. You can tell if it’s precooked by the amount of time the package says it will take to cook. If it says they take about 30 minutes, they’re the right kind. If it says they take 3 minutes, the texture won’t be quite right.
** The one I used to develop and test this recipe was Bob’s Red Bill gluten free 1-to-1 baking flour. Namaste also makes a good all purpose gluten free flour. Make sure you find a flour that has xanthan gum in the blend, which will give the dough enough elasticity to hold together without crumbling or cracking. You’ll also want to make sure it’s neutral-flavored (stay away from blends with a lot of chickpea flour, which has a more distinctive flavor than rice flour).
*** If you don’t have a ma’amoul mold, no worries. Shape them into a ball with your hands, and then carefully flatten them between your two palms, patting the sides to make sure they stay closed and don’t crack. Then you can get creative decorating them with forks, tongs, and other objects. If you are using a mold, the best one to use is the flat round one. The ones that form tall mounds are usually used for walnut and pistachio-filled ma’amoul, and the flat ones are usually for dried fruit paste filled ma’amoul.
**** If you’re not using a convection oven, you may need to slightly increase the temperature and/or cook them just a minute longer.

rosemary cornmeal fig ma'amoul (gluten free)